Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, which begins in New York on Sept. 9, will get a new home this season for the spring 2011 collections. Two years of planning went into the relocation of the event from Bryant Park to Lincoln Center for the Performing Arts, beside the Metropolitan Opera. The “tents” are being resurrected from the park site, which was originally chosen because the majority of the designers have studios and offices in the neighborhood. But Lincoln Center offers room for a larger tent and, of course, larger crowds.
The runway shows that were historically organized for store buyers and fashion editors to view the new collections have grown in popularity over the years, with fashion bloggers and more celebrity attendees in sought-after front-row seats. The shows that began in 1943 were initially held in the designer’s showroom or hotels, but many moved to Bryant Park in 1994 for the convenience of being under one big top.
Some designers, including Marc Jacobs and Donna Karan, continued to hold runway shows in various locations outside the tents during Fashion Week. Designer Chado Ralph Rucci announced just this month that he would forgo the expense of a runway show at Lincoln Center, which can cost between $500,000 and $750,000, for the chance to greet his guests during a show in the more intimate confines of his SoHo showroom. Consequently, the change in venue to Lincoln Center on the Upper West Side garnered a moan of despair from journalists faced with the feat of getting from uptown to downtown between shows.
Despite labor disputes and complaints from neighbors about the noise and congestion around Bryant Park, Christina Neault, executive producer with IMG Fashion Worldwide, said that the success of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week was the reason for the change in location.
”I think the challenge [of moving] has been a positive thing because it’s new and exciting. We have been doing the same event for 16 years. Lincoln Center is an iconic institution in New York, and it fits with fashion as part of the arts and entertainment culture,” Ms. Neault said.
The current tented runway venue has 120,000 square feet. Ms. Neault said that there are few structures in New York that allow designers to re-create their environment with specialty lighting and sound facilities, and that are equipped to be altered every hour for each designer’s production. IMG does not expect to have any sound issues, which sometimes haunted them at Bryant Park.
”Lincoln Center is the center of music, so they are used to it. The sound is set up so you have to be in the venue to hear,” Ms. Neault said.
The lobby of the event is being erected around trees in Lincoln Center’s plaza and will be able to host more technology lounges for reality shows and Internet-based media doing live feeds.
”I think people can expect to see a lot of changes,” said public relations manager Alison Levy. “VIPs are coming, and fashion followers that have all these great reality shows that don’t normally get to come to Fashion Week. There will also be more on-site presentations and garden events.”
Along with a bigger venue, IMG is implementing a barcode system that will reportedly bring the shows into the forefront of international runway shows. Instead of lining up behind assistants holding clipboards and colored paper indicating seating, guests will have a printout much like an airplane ticket that they scan at a kiosk. The process is meant to eliminate gate-crashers and allow easy entry into shows. By using the Fashion GPS system, the barcodes will also allow organizers to track who came to the show and automatically fill seats when invitees do not show.
However, there are skeptics such as Women’s Wear Daily contributor Bridget Foley, who wrote last Friday that the new technology might be more of a marketing ploy for the companies that are sponsoring the system.
Going all out for Fashion’s Night Out
Last September, the Council of Fashion Designers of America, Vogue and NYC & Co. organized a citywide kickoff for Fashion Week called Fashion’s Night Out as a way to boost a fashion industry hit by the economic downturn. They aimed to stimulate sales and support for the fashion industry by encouraging customers to buy at full price.
”The fashion industry based on discounts will not survive,” said Susan Portnoy, spokeswoman for Fashion’s Night Out. “Discounts are not in the spirit of the event.”
This year, Fashion’s Night Out is expected to be even bigger. Diane von Furstenberg is hosting a digital interactive fashion playground at her boutique and gallery. Christian Siriano and Lela Rose will be signing autographs at Payless Shoes where they have collections. Carolina Herrera will appear at her boutique on Madison Avenue along with a magician, music, photographs and cocktails. The night is like a giant gallery crawl and a meet-and-greet for designers and the public.
”The stores can take this opportunity to create wonderful events,” said Ms. Portnoy. “One of the major things this year is that stores across the United States are joining New York City in celebrations.”
The second annual event will be held at more than 1,000 stores in New York and in 100 cities across the globe from 6 to 11 p.m. Sept. 10. The organizers are going further by hosting a public runway show on Sept. 7 at the Lincoln Center tents. The sold-out show will feature 200 models in fall trends from inexpensive to high couture designs. The collections will be available for purchase at the show, along with the event’s signature shirt collection. Proceeds of the event and the merchandising benefit the New York AIDS Fund.